7 Methods to Start Locs: Drawbacks & What to Expect

There are essentially 7 different methods that can be used to start locs. The best method for you depends greatly on the combination of your hair texture, hair length, and desired end result/size. I want to be very clear that every hair texture can form “locs” with time, patience, and proper care. The commonality of each technique is that the hair will go through the phases of locking, but the difference is how they will look during the evolution.

The 7 Methods to Start Locs

1. Starting Locs With Two Strand Twists

Locs can be started with two strand twists with as little as 4 inches of hair, and it is often the go to method for longer hair or highly textured hair. Starting locs with two strand twists will give the locs a solid internal foundation and create thicker locs, depending on the size of the two-strand twists.

Drawbacks:
The lines of the two strand twists can take 6 months – 2 years to completely disappear and produce the appearance of solid locs.

What to expect:
In the beginning, your twists may unravel at the ends, so it is important to always maintain the locs from root to ends. Locs that are started with two strand twists can use palm rolling or comb twisting for maintenance.

RELATED: Advice for Starting Locs With Two-Strand Twists

2. Starting Locs With Braids / Plaits

Locs can be started with braids / plaits with at least 5 inches of hair of any texture. Braid Locs, as they’re called, are ideal for individuals that sweat a lot in their scalp or that wish to maintain their locs with interlocking.

Drawbacks:
The braided pattern in the hair can take at least 1 year to disappear, and with longer hair the pattern may never fully disappear. Also, keep in mind, because the braiding pattern produces more of a linear aesthetic the resulting locs may be flat in appearance rather than circular.

What to expect:
In the beginning, your braids may unravel at the ends. You can remedy this by styling your locs after a maintenance session or by threading the ends. Locs that are started with braids / plaits can use palm rolling or interlocking for maintenance.

3. Starting Locs With Comb Coils

To start locs with comb coils, you only need about 2-3 inches of hair (depending on your desired end result) and they can be done on any texture of hair. This method utilizes a comb to create uniform coils around your head, which are often the go to technique for pencil-sized traditional locs.

Drawbacks:
While shorter lengths will lock fairly quickly with this method, starting locs with comb coils on longer lengths of hair will take longer to lock because the inside of the comb coil is hollow and the coil has to mesh together internally first to begin loc’ing.

What to Expect:
Comb coils can be sensitive to water with soft textures so you want to be sure to only wet them when you’re shampooing them to prevent them from coming undone. Once the ends are sealed and there is a bud on the end, this method “looks like locs” the quickest.

4. Backcombing

This method is commonly used amongst Caucasians, or individuals with naturally straight hair, because it involves teasing the hairs to “create” an internal intertwining of hairs, then palm rolling it into the shape of a loc. I’m personally biased towards backcombing because that’s how I started my current set of locs and it worked out perfectly for my soft, fine hair texture.

Drawbacks:
If you don’t maintain the locs properly in the beginning you can have “blow-outs” or budding on the shaft of the locs instead of the ends.

What to Expect:
Backcombing gives you “instant locs” that are easy to maintain using the palm-rolling or comb twisting methods.

5. Interlocking / Sisterlocks

Starting locs with interlocking or installing Sisterlocks are for people
with very active lifestyles who want their locs to appear neat the majority of the time and don’t want to be bothered with maintenance themselves. This method involves using a tool or your fingers to interweave the loc through itself.

Drawbacks:
The resulting locs are often micro to small in size. Also, depending on your texture of hair, it can take 6 months to 2+ years before your hair is fully locked.

What to Expect:
Interlocking basically creates the internal structure of the loc first and then all the shed hairs accumulate around that matrix, and because of this the locs will swell in size first, as they’re maturing, and then shrink down in size.

6. Loc Extensions

For people that don’t want to go through the “ugly phase” of locs and instantly want the appearance of long, cultivated locs this method is for you. You can attach loc extensions with human hair fibers, synthetic fibers, or someone else’s locs. The option of Loc Extensions are available for all types of locs expect Sisterlocks / Brotherlocks and you can maintain the nu growth with palm rolling, interlocking, or comb twisting.

Drawbacks:
If you use synthetic fibers to start your journey, the locs will be heavier and you’ll be limited from any coloring unless you cut the extensions off. Also, with the instantaneous cultivation of locs through extensions, you will never get the full experience of growing your hair into maturity, so it can be hard to relate to others in the loc’d community.

What to Expect:
Although your extensions will be “loc’d” your hair/roots will need to go through the locking process, and anyone with locs will tell you that it includes frizz (but you skipped the hard part)!

RELATED: What are Loc Extensions?

7. Organically

You can organically start your locs in several ways, whether you shampoo your hair and never detangle it again or use a curl sponge and let your locs form on their own. Freeform locs are free to grow how they please and you don’t separate them from each other, instead you let the hair dictate the look.

Drawbacks:
You never know how your locs will turn out— for some that is the beauty of the journey and others it can be unsettling and a learned appreciation.

What to Expect:
You will never have to worry about your hair as long as you freeform, you literally just embrace the journey.

RELATED: Best Products for Starter Locs

With methods 1-6, if you’re starting with a natural hair care professional it is recommended that you return to the salon at least 4-6 weeks after your initial installation, for at least the first 6 months, to ensure the locking process is successfully beginning and to remedy any issues. Trust me, waiting 6 months to go back to the salon and realizing you have issues that could have been corrected months ago is very heartbreaking and costly. As long as you’re patient, cultivating locs is a very fun and revealing process, and you’ll learn a lot about your hair and yourself throughout the journey!

What method did you choose to start your locs? And Why?